Infrared Light for Skin and Hair – Can Light Encourage Renewal and Growth?

We are used to thinking of sunlight as something the skin needs protection from, but not all types of light affect the body in the same way. In recent years, interest has been growing in treatments using red light and near-infrared light, intended to support natural processes of repair and renewal in the skin and in the hair follicles.

Today one can find face masks, body panels, helmets, and combs for the hair, all based on the idea that light at certain wavelengths can influence the activity of the cells.

But does it really work? What is the difference between red light and infrared, and which benefits have been proven in studies?

What is infrared light?

Infrared light is part of the electromagnetic spectrum, beyond the red light we are able to see.

In skin and hair treatments, two main types of light are used:

• Red light: usually at wavelengths of about 630–670 nanometers.
• Near-infrared light (Near-Infrared, or NIR): usually in the range of about 810–850 nanometers, although additional wavelengths also exist.

Red light acts mainly in relatively superficial layers of the skin, while near-infrared light is able to penetrate deeper into the tissues, depending on the wavelength and the properties of the skin.

It is important to distinguish between near-infrared, used in photobiomodulation treatments, and far-infrared, found for example in infrared saunas and acting mainly through heating.

These are not identical treatments, and it should not be concluded that research results on one of them are valid for the other.

How does the light affect the cells?

The treatment is called Photobiomodulation, or PBM for short.

The idea is that controlled exposure to light at certain wavelengths can influence biological processes inside the cell, without the need for significant heating of the tissue.

One of the mechanisms studied is related to the mitochondria, the organelles responsible for a large part of the energy production in the cells.

Researchers are examining how the light affects the activity of enzymes such as Cytochrome c Oxidase, signaling molecules, and processes related to energy production, inflammation, and tissue repair.

However, the mechanisms are complex and are not yet fully understood.

The effect depends on the wavelength, the intensity of the light, the duration of the exposure, and the amount of energy that reaches the tissue. More light is not necessarily better.

What are the possible benefits for facial skin?

1. Supporting collagen production and improving skin texture

Collagen is one of the central proteins responsible for the structure of the skin, its strength, and its firm appearance.

Over the years, collagen production changes, and the skin gradually loses part of its elasticity and firmness.

Small studies have found that treatment with red light and near-infrared light may improve to a certain extent the appearance of fine lines, the texture, and the elasticity of the skin.

Some of the studies also point to a possible effect on the activity of the fibroblasts, the cells involved in collagen production.

However, the improvement is usually gradual and moderate. This is not a substitute for a facelift or for treatments whose purpose is to create significant structural change in the skin.

2. Reducing inflammatory processes

One of the interesting areas in light treatment is the possible ability to regulate inflammatory responses.

Studies point to certain anti-inflammatory effects, which may be relevant to healing processes and to various skin conditions.

But it is important to distinguish between reducing inflammatory processes under research conditions and a proven treatment for every skin disease.

For example, people with rosacea or sensitive skin should be especially careful with devices that produce heat, since heat may worsen redness.

3. Supporting healing processes

Red light and near-infrared light are also studied in the context of wound healing and tissue recovery.

There are findings indicating a possibility of improvement in certain tissue-repair processes, but the results depend on the type of wound and the treatment protocol.

A home device should not be used as a substitute for medical treatment of an open, infected, or non-healing wound.

4. Improving the general appearance of the skin

In some of the studies, the participants reported an improvement in the feeling of smoothness and in the general appearance of the skin after a series of treatments.

It is important to remember that this is a complementary treatment. Gentle cleansing, moisture, protection from the sun, and a balanced diet still constitute a significant basis for maintaining the health of the skin.

Can red light help against hair loss?

This is one of the areas in which there is particularly encouraging clinical evidence — though encouraging is not the same as proven, and the studies tested specific devices, not every device on the market.

Low-intensity light treatment, also called Low-Level Light Therapy or LLLT, has been studied mainly in men and women with androgenetic alopecia, that is, hair thinning with a genetic and hormonal background.

Controlled studies and systematic reviews have found that certain devices may increase the density of the hair after consistent use over several months.

How may the light affect the hair follicle?

The hair follicle has a natural growth cycle that includes three main stages:

• Anagen: the active growth stage.
• Catagen: a short transition stage.
• Telogen: a resting stage, at the end of which the hair may shed.

Researchers hypothesize that light treatment can influence the activity of the cells in the follicle, support the growth stage, and influence signaling pathways related to the hair cycle.

The treatment does not create new hair follicles in a place where they no longer exist, and it is not suitable for all types of hair loss.

For example, hair loss caused by iron deficiency, by a thyroid disorder, by medications, or by certain diseases requires addressing the cause itself.

When can results be seen in the hair?

Hair grows slowly, and therefore a change should not be expected within days or a few weeks.

In many studies, results were examined after about 12–26 weeks of regular use.

Some users may notice a change in the density or the appearance of the hair after three to six months, but the results vary between people.

To preserve the results, it may be necessary to continue the treatment, similar to other treatments against baldness.

Are red light and infrared light the same thing?

Not exactly.

The two types of light have similar uses in some of the treatments, but their depth of penetration into the tissue and their optical properties are different.

Red light is used in many studies on facial skin and on hair growth. Near-infrared light is also studied in the context of deeper tissues.

Certain devices combine the two types, but there is no proof that every combination is necessarily more effective than using one wavelength.

Effectiveness depends on the parameters of the device and not only on the number of colors or bulbs it contains.

How are light devices used at home?

Devices can be found in different forms: LED masks for the face, panels, caps, helmets, and combs for the hair.

The most important thing is to choose a device intended for the specific purpose of the treatment.

A device intended for improving the appearance of facial skin is not necessarily suitable for treating hair loss, and vice versa.

The duration of exposure also varies between devices. In some it is a matter of a few minutes, and in others longer periods of time.

There is no single recommendation suitable for all devices, since the intensity of the light, the distance from the skin, and the energy received differ from product to product.

Therefore, it is important to stick to the manufacturer's instructions and not to extend the treatment time out of the thought that prolonged exposure will give faster results.

Is the treatment safe?

When appropriate devices are used according to the instructions, red light and near-infrared light treatments are generally considered to have a good safety profile in the short term.

However, effects such as redness, a feeling of warmth, dryness, irritation, or headache may occur.

Particular care should be taken with eye protection in accordance with the device's instructions. The fact that infrared light is not visible to the eye does not mean that it is safe for direct viewing.

People who take medications that increase sensitivity to light, suffer from diseases related to sensitivity to light, or are treating an area with a suspicious lesion should consult a medical professional before use.

It is also important to understand that regulatory approval or registration of a device does not guarantee an identical result in every user.

Can infrared light harm the skin?

Here it is important to distinguish between controlled treatment and prolonged exposure to heat.

High-intensity infrared light may heat tissues, and with excessive exposure cause damage to the skin.

Repeated and prolonged exposure to heat sources can also cause changes in pigmentation and in the appearance of the skin.

Therefore, it is not correct to assume that every type of infrared light is beneficial to the skin just because it is light and not ultraviolet radiation.

In addition, the research on the long-term effects of frequent home use is still limited.

Does red light replace skincare products?

No. These are two different approaches that can be integrated alongside each other.

Light treatment is intended to influence biological processes in the tissue, while appropriate skincare products can help maintain moisture, support the skin's protective barrier, and protect against environmental damage.

Even if an LED mask is used regularly, it is still important to protect the skin from UV radiation with an appropriate sunscreen.

Red light and infrared light do not replace sunscreen, and they do not cancel out damage caused by uncontrolled exposure to the sun.

So is it worth trying?

I think that light treatments are an interesting field, especially because they make it possible to research non-invasive ways to support the activity of the cells.

As for the hair, there is encouraging evidence for the use of certain devices to treat androgenetic alopecia — promising findings, still short of settled proof.

As for facial skin, there are studies that point to a moderate improvement in texture, in fine lines, and in elasticity, but larger and more uniform studies are still required to understand which protocols are particularly effective.

If one chooses to try, I would relate to it as an addition to the skincare and health routine, and not as a magic solution.

In summary

Red light and near-infrared light are much more than a new trend in the field of skincare. Behind them stands a real field of research that examines how light at certain wavelengths may influence cell activity, tissue-repair processes, and hair growth.

However, not every device that glows red provides the same wavelengths, and not every marketing promise is backed by studies.

In my eyes, the most interesting part is the understanding that the skin and the hair follicles are living and dynamic tissues, which respond not only to the substances we apply on them, but also to their physical environment.

Correct skincare begins with understanding the body, and not with a promise of fast results.

Nurit Rozenblat

With love,
Nurit Rozenblat
OrOrgani

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