Adult Acne: Why Do Breakouts Return After 30 and 40, and What Is the Connection to Hormones and Nutrition?
Nurit Rozenblat
We thought we had already passed that age.
Adolescence, the pimples appearing precisely before an important event, and the attempts to hide them with makeup.
And then, precisely in the thirties, forties, and sometimes even fifties, they return.
Sometimes these are small pimples appearing around the monthly cycle, and sometimes deep, painful, stubborn pimples settling in the chin and jawline area.
And the most frustrating thing is that we are no longer teenagers. We are careful about cleansing the face, invest in skincare products, and yet the skin continues to surprise us.
But acne is not a phenomenon belonging only to adolescence.
Adult acne, and especially in women, is a recognized, common condition.
It can continue from adolescence, return after years of clear skin, or appear for the first time at an adult age.
And to understand how to treat it correctly, it is important to understand first what really causes it.
Why do pimples form at all?
Before we talk about hormones and nutrition, it is worth understanding what occurs inside the skin.
Acne develops in a unit called the hair follicle and sebaceous gland.
Several processes participate in its development:
- Increased production of oil, also called sebum.
- Accumulation of skin cells inside the follicle, which may cause blockage.
- Activity of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes, which is a natural part of the skin microbiome.
- An inflammatory response developing inside the follicle and its surroundings.
When these processes combine, comedones — blackheads and whiteheads — may appear, alongside red, pus-filled pimples and sometimes also deep, painful lesions.
It is important to me to emphasize something.
Acne is not simply caused by lack of cleanliness.
Even a woman who cleanses her face meticulously can suffer from acne.
And in fact, overly aggressive cleansing may damage the protective barrier of the skin and worsen the irritation.
What is the difference between teenage acne and adult acne?
In adolescence acne is often connected to a rise in hormonal activity and oil secretion.
The pimples can appear on the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, and sometimes also on the back and chest.
In adult women we sometimes see a slightly different pattern.
The acne may concentrate in the lower part of the face, mainly the chin and jawline, and appear as recurring outbreaks.
But this is not an absolute rule.
Hormonal acne can also appear in other areas of the face, and the location of the pimples alone is insufficient to determine their cause.
In addition, at an adult age the skin may be more sensitive or dry, especially when approaching menopause.
Therefore a treatment suited to a 16-year-old girl will not necessarily suit a 45-year-old woman.
The connection between hormones and acne in women
One of the most important factors in female acne is hormonal activity.
Our sebaceous glands are affected by androgens — a group of hormones including, among others, testosterone.
Although we are used to thinking of them as male hormones, androgens also exist in the woman's body, and they fulfill important roles.
Androgens can encourage the activity of the sebaceous glands and affect sebum production.
In some women there are high levels of androgens, and in others the hormone levels are completely normal, but the sebaceous glands are more sensitive to their effect.
And this is an important point.
Not every woman suffering from hormonal acne suffers from a hormonal imbalance that can be identified in a blood test.
Sometimes it is a matter of the skin's sensitivity to normal hormonal activity.
Why do the pimples appear precisely before the period?
Many women know this phenomenon.
A few days before the period new pimples appear, often on the chin or in the jaw area.
The hormonal changes occurring throughout the cycle can affect the activity of the sebaceous glands and the skin's tendency to outbreaks.
Therefore acne worsening in a cyclical manner is a recognized phenomenon.
If you notice the pimples appear almost at the same time every month, it is worth tracking this pattern.
The information can help the dermatologist understand the picture and tailor treatment.
And what happens at menopause?
This is one of the subjects that especially interest me.
During the perimenopause period, the years in which the body approaches menopause, hormone levels may change significantly.
Estrogen levels become fluctuating and later decline.
The change in the ratio between estrogens and androgens may affect the activity of the sebaceous glands in some women.
The result can be a state that seems almost contradictory.
On the one hand, the skin feels drier, thinner, or more sensitive.
On the other hand, pimples appear.
That is, it is definitely possible to suffer from acne even without especially oily skin.
This is one of the reasons it is important not to try to dry out the skin at all costs.
Adult skin with acne still needs moisture and maintenance of its protective barrier.
When is it worth checking whether a hormonal problem exists?
Not every woman with acne needs hormonal tests.
But there are situations in which it is worth consulting a doctor regarding further evaluation.
For example, when the acne appears together with significantly irregular cycles, excess hair growth on the face or body, thinning hair on the scalp, or other signs that may indicate excess androgens.
One of the conditions the doctor may consider is polycystic ovary syndrome, PCOS.
Certain medications and other medical conditions may also affect the appearance of acne.
If severe, sudden acne appears, especially alongside prominent hormonal changes, it is important to seek medical evaluation.
Can psychological stress worsen acne?
Definitely possible.
We know that psychological stress affects many systems in the body, including the nervous system, the immune system, and hormonal activity.
In periods of stress, mechanisms connected among others to cortisol and additional stress hormones are activated.
These processes may affect inflammation and the activity of the sebaceous glands.
Studies found a connection between high stress levels and worsening of acne in some people.
But it is important to me to be precise: it is not correct to say that every pimple appearing in a stressful period is caused directly by cortisol.
Acne is a complex condition affected by several factors simultaneously.
And nevertheless, good sleep, physical activity, and stress management can contribute to general health and integrate into skin treatment.
And what is the connection between the digestive system and acne?
In recent years we hear more and more about the concept of the gut–skin axis.
The idea is that the digestive system and the skin do not operate completely separately.
Both systems are connected to the activity of the immune system, inflammatory processes, and the microbiome — the populations of microorganisms living in our body.
Researchers are examining how the composition of gut bacteria, their metabolic products, and immune mechanisms may affect inflammatory conditions in the skin.
This is a very interesting research field.
But it is important to distinguish between initial research and facts already proven.
There is currently no proof that all adult acne stems from an imbalance in gut bacteria, and there is no routine microbiome test allowing identification of the cause of acne in a specific woman.
The concept of "leaky gut," appearing sometimes in online publications, is also not an established explanation for most acne cases.
Therefore I would not recommend starting supplements, detox cleanses, or treatments for the digestive system just because pimples appeared.
Nevertheless, there are certain nutritional connections worth knowing.
Sugar and refined carbohydrates: do they affect the pimples?
One of the nutritional connections researched more in the context of acne is the connection between glycemic load and skin activity.
When we eat foods that rapidly raise blood sugar levels, the body responds by secreting insulin.
Pathways connected to insulin and the growth factor IGF-1 may affect the activity of the sebaceous glands and processes occurring inside the hair follicles.
Certain studies found that a diet with low glycemic load can improve the acne condition in some people.
But this does not mean that everyone who eats sugar will develop pimples, or that complete avoidance of carbohydrates will cure acne.
In my eyes, the correct approach is to focus on the quality of the nutrition.
To prefer whole foods, vegetables, legumes, quality protein sources, and fiber-rich carbohydrates, and reduce excessive consumption of sweetened drinks and foods high in added sugar.
This is an approach that can contribute to general health, also regardless of the skin condition.
And what about dairy products?
This is a subject raising many questions.
In some studies a connection was found between milk consumption, especially low-fat milk, and a higher prevalence of acne.
There are also reports and studies pointing to a possible connection between whey protein supplements, Whey Protein, and the appearance of pimples in some people.
One of the hypotheses is that the connection is related to an effect on insulin and IGF-1 pathways.
But most of the evidence on dairy products is based on observational studies, so it is hard to prove a causal connection.
In addition, not all dairy products affect in the same way, and not every woman is sensitive to them.
Therefore there is no sweeping recommendation to stop consuming dairy products in order to treat acne.
If you suspect a personal connection exists between a certain product and outbreaks, you can keep an orderly tracking and examine the subject with a professional.
It is just important to avoid unnecessary dietary restrictions, especially if they harm consumption of calcium, protein, or other essential components.
Can probiotics help acne?
Because of the growing interest in the gut–skin axis, researchers are also examining the possibility of using probiotics as part of acne treatment.
There are initial studies suggesting possible benefit of certain strains.
But the studies are still relatively small, and they differ greatly in the types of bacteria, the dosages, and the duration of treatment.
Therefore there is currently no basis to recommend a specific probiotic supplement as a proven treatment for acne.
It is also important to remember that not every supplement containing the word "probiotics" works in the same way.
If you also suffer from symptoms in the digestive system, it is worth clarifying them on their own and not assuming they are necessarily the cause of the pimples.
How to treat adult skin with acne correctly?
Here I want to address precisely a mistake I see quite a lot.
When pimples appear, the initial instinct is to dry them out.
To use a strong soap, add peeling, apply another active ingredient, and try to make the pimple disappear as fast as possible.
But adult skin, especially if it is sensitive or dry, does not always respond well to this approach.
Overly aggressive treatment may cause dryness, burning, peeling, and damage to the protective barrier of the skin.
And sometimes the result is that we are left with both pimples and irritated skin.
Therefore I prefer to start with a simple, gentle routine.
Recommended skincare routine for adult skin prone to acne
In the morning
Start with gentle cleansing suited to the skin type.
If the skin is very dry, you may not need aggressive cleansing in the morning.
Afterward you can use a light moisturizer suited to skin prone to acne.
Choose products that do not tend to clog pores, and are sometimes marked as Non-Comedogenic.
Finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 at least.
Sun protection is especially important when there are spots remaining after pimples, because sun exposure may worsen pigmentation.
In the evening
Remove makeup and sunscreen using a gentle cleansing preparation.
If you use an active treatment against acne, integrate it according to the instructions and the skin's ability to tolerate it.
Finish with a moisturizer supporting the protective barrier of the skin.
There is no need to use all the active ingredients on the same evening.
Sometimes a simple, consistent routine works better than a combination of many products.
Which active ingredients can help acne?
There are several ingredients well researched in the field of acne treatment.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble acid, used in products intended for skin with clogged pores and comedones.
It can help remove cells that accumulated inside the follicles.
But overly frequent use may cause dryness and irritation.
Benzoyl peroxide
This is one of the effective ingredients for treating inflammatory acne.
It acts, among other things, to reduce the amount of bacteria involved in acne.
Here too it is important to adjust the concentration and frequency of use to reduce irritation.
Retinoids
Certain retinoids, like adapalene, are used for treating acne because they help regulate the process in which cells accumulate inside the hair follicle.
They can also be effective in preventing the formation of new lesions.
But they may cause dryness and sensitivity at the start of use.
Use of retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy, and medical consultation should be sought regarding their use when planning pregnancy.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid can suit some women suffering from acne, especially when there are also spots remaining after the pimples.
It is used for treating acne and certain pigmentation conditions, and sometimes also suits sensitive skin, according to the formula and concentration.
It is important to remember that even good ingredients do not suit everyone.
If the skin is irritated or if the acne is significant, it is worth consulting a dermatologist before combining several active treatments.
When is cosmetic treatment no longer enough?
There are situations in which skincare products alone cannot provide a sufficient answer.
If deep, painful pimples appear, lesions recurring again and again, scars, or significant spots, it is worth contacting a dermatologist.
Effective medical treatments exist for adult acne.
In some cases topical treatments can be used, and in other cases the doctor may consider a suitable hormonal treatment, like spironolactone or certain pills, according to the health condition and indications.
In cases of severe or scarring acne, treatment with isotretinoin under medical supervision may also be considered.
The suitable treatment depends on the type of acne, its severity, the health condition, and pregnancy plans.
There is no reason to continue suffering from deep pimples or scars out of the thought that this is a problem that must be solved only through skincare products.
How long does it take to see improvement?
One of the most important things in acne treatment is patience.
We are used to expecting rapid improvement, especially when we start using a new product.
But acne treatment usually requires several weeks before a significant change begins to be seen.
In many treatments it is customary to assess the response after about 6–8 weeks, and sometimes about 12 weeks are required to assess the result better.
Switching products every few days may make it harder for us to understand what really helps and what causes irritation.
Therefore it is worth choosing a suitable routine, persisting with it, and giving the skin time to respond.
And what about pimples appearing suddenly at age 50?
It is important to know that not every red pimple on the face is necessarily acne.
At an adult age additional conditions that look similar may appear, like rosacea, perioral dermatitis, or irritation from skincare products.
The treatments for these conditions are not always identical.
For example, a treatment suited to acne may worsen rosacea in some women.
Therefore when new pimples appear at an adult age, especially if they are accompanied by widespread redness, burning, or sensitivity, it is worth verifying that it is really acne.
Our approach at OrOrgani
At OrOrgani we believe the first step in correct care is to understand the skin.
Not every pimple indicates dirty skin.
Not all acne is caused by hormones.
And not every skin problem begins in the digestive system.
Sometimes it is a combination of genetic tendency, hormonal activity, inflammation, lifestyle habits, and environmental factors.
Therefore I do not believe in an approach of aggressive drying or using as many active ingredients as possible.
I believe in gentle cleansing, maintaining the protective barrier of the skin, choosing ingredients suited to its condition, and seeking medical treatment when needed.
Skincare products can support the skin, improve its feeling of comfort, and help maintain a balanced routine.
But when it comes to significant acne, it is important to also address the possible medical factors and not settle for external treatment alone.
In summary: Adult acne is not a sign we are caring for the skin incorrectly
If the pimples returned in the thirties, forties, or fifties, it does not mean you failed at skincare.
Adult acne is a recognized phenomenon, especially in women, and it can be affected by hormones, genetics, inflammatory processes, and sometimes also nutritional factors.
The connection between nutrition and acne is researched, and in some cases nutritional adjustments may help.
The connection between the gut and the skin is also an interesting research field, but it is still early to conclude that every pimple is a sign of a problem in the digestive system.
What is important is not to fight our skin.
Not to dry it by force.
Not to switch products endlessly.
And not to assume that what suits others will suit us too.
I believe that the better we understand our skin and the changes the body undergoes over the years, the more we can treat it in a smart, gentle, and precise way.
Because also at age 40, 50, and beyond, we deserve to feel good with our skin.
Not necessarily perfect skin.
But healthy, cared-for, comfortable skin that we feel good in.
With love,
Nurit
OrOrgani
With love,
Nurit Rozenblat
OrOrgani
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